


Organic Aubergine
The Italian word for aubergine is ‘melanzana’, which comes from the Greek for black; ’melas’.
In Italian folklore aubergines were said to cause insanity, perhaps thanks to ‘melanzana’ easily turning into ‘mela insana' which literally translates into ’mad apple’.
Fascinating, similar linguistic association seems to have occurred prior to this in India, where the Sanskrit for aubergine ‘vatingana’ was associated with the word ‘vati’, which means wind. This is relevant because madness was thought to be caused by wayward, unpredictable currents in the body and was known as ‘wind sickness’.
Now, during gluts, we really have eaten our fair share of these glossy, midnight-skinned berries (yes, botanically speaking that’s what they are!) and we’ve no reason to think they will send anyone crazy. However, we can see why you wouldn’t be nuts about them if you’ve only had them undercooked: bitter and spongey. Modern varieties, like Black Beauty, which we usually grow ourselves, don’t need salting, though this does draw out excess moisture and stop them sucking up as much oil, if you’re frying them. They do still benefit from being exposed to high temperatures though, and while it takes a bit of nerve doing it the first time, when charred on a BBQ to what looks like the point of no rescue, underneath they’ll be tender and smoky.
However you prepare them you want to wait until their flesh is luxuriously unctuous, rather than like a bit of roof insulation and it makes a huge difference if you pre-roast slices before adding them to curry or even ratatouille.
Aubergine parmigiana or moussaka are, justifiably, probably most people’s first thought when they get one in their veg box but don’t forget how good they are baked with a miso-glaze or about making Baba Ganoush (save time chopping and cook the whole thing, scooping out the insides later).
This summer when our plants are in full swing we’re planning to whip up a dish of involtini, where you roll grilled strips of aubergine filled with ricotta (or a tofu and nut based alternative) and bake under a rich tomato sauce.

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